Bist Du ein Fan von Klassikern wie Ford Granada, Taunus, Capri oder Opel Rekord?
Dann verpasse nicht die Chance, Teil unserer Community zu werden.
Registriere Dich jetzt mit wenigen Klicks im Hecktrieb Forum und tauch ein in die Welt der Hecktriebler!
Gude
Do you have a Checklamp ( a bulb with a bit of wire) ? Ground (31) Battery on one end of the wire, the other side of the wire on coil 15, is the bulb on ? Your problem is maybe the switch in the distributor. Do you have a picture from inside without the cap?
on your coil are 3 connection points: in the middle is 4 ignition cable to distribute cap, on the side is 15 (Battery positive) and the last one on the other side is 1 ( Battery negative switched from distributor)
Alles anzeigenAnother way to test your coil;
- Remove all wires from coil (!!)
- Put multimeter to Ω
- Measure primary coil resistance in between terminal "15" (or "+") and terminal "31" (or "-").
Result should be something in the range of approximately near 1 Ohm and 3.X Ohms (depends on type of ignition system / coil).
- Put multimeter to kΩ or MΩ
- Measure secondary resistance in between terminal "4" (this is the centre terminal for the HV cable to the dizzy) and terminal "31" (or "-"). Result should be something in the range of approximately 10 kΩ to 20kΩ.
If you get these results the coil should be ok. Some coils are filled with oil for cooling purposes. You will notice that if you shake the coil. There should no oil be leaking from the coil.
Some coils have a little "plug", usually near terminal "4" which must not be lost or damaged. This "plug" will be "blown out" if the coil overheats.
If your system is still operated by points the capacitor cable must not be shorted to ground.
If your system uses a Hot Spark (or similar) the capacitor must be removed!
I am slightly confused what the "hissing sound" may mean ...
Maybe the distributor is dialled in wrong.
First, I fixed the video so now you can check it out. As it only started hissing after I fixed the starter wire and did some aligning with spark plugs and the cables its possible that the cable is loose. Unfortunately I don't have a multimeter but it looks like I'll have to get one on monday once the stores are open again.
What do the terminal numbers mean?
Your video is inaccessible for me.
Are you getting any spark yet (against the block?)
If you have a shiny new aftermarket distributor from China, that might very well be the problem… it might just be DOA.
Video accessible now.
A few days ago there was some spark against the block, now when I tried it today not. Maybe I just put it on a wrong part.
The distributor is a few years old and worked in the start, but yeah it could be faulty.
Here are a few photos of it
Gude
Do you have a Checklamp ( a bulb with a bit of wire) ? Ground (31) Battery on one end of the wire, the other side of the wire on coil 15, is the bulb on ? Your problem is maybe the switch in the distributor. Do you have a picture from inside without the cap?
on your coil are 3 connection points: in the middle is 4 ignition cable to distribute cap, on the side is 15 (Battery positive) and the last one on the other side is 1 ( Battery negative switched from distributor)
I have this thing for measuring. You can see photo of the distributor on the above comment.
Is this right?
The 1 on the right goes toward a little box. In here one side goes to ground and another side goes toward the ignition under steering wheel.
Gude
The voltage tester is okay for the following tests.
I repeat: the blue cable in the middle is 4
there is no 31 on the coil! It is a negative signal from distributor switch, its called 1
the red cable is 15, coming from the car in black and goes to the coil and as red to the little ecu in the distributor
First you have to check with the voltage tester from battery negative to the red cable on the coil when the ignition is on ( red battery lamp is on)
Alles anzeigenAnother way to test your coil;
- Remove all wires from coil (!!)
- Put multimeter to Ω
- Measure primary coil resistance in between terminal "15" (or "+") and terminal "31" (or "-").
Result should be something in the range of approximately near 1 Ohm and 3.X Ohms (depends on type of ignition system / coil).
- Put multimeter to kΩ or MΩ
- Measure secondary resistance in between terminal "4" (this is the centre terminal for the HV cable to the dizzy) and terminal "31" (or "-"). Result should be something in the range of approximately 10 kΩ to 20kΩ.
If you get these results the coil should be ok. Some coils are filled with oil for cooling purposes. You will notice that if you shake the coil. There should no oil be leaking from the coil.
Some coils have a little "plug", usually near terminal "4" which must not be lost or damaged. This "plug" will be "blown out" if the coil overheats.
If your system is still operated by points the capacitor cable must not be shorted to ground.
If your system uses a Hot Spark (or similar) the capacitor must be removed!
I am slightly confused what the "hissing sound" may mean ...
Maybe the distributor is dialled in wrong.
Okay, I tested this.
Test number 1 with 15 and 31 shows between 2.2 and 2.4 (when multimeter Set on 200 ohms)
Test 2 with red on 4 and black on 31 shows 7.68 ohms precisely when multimeter is Set on 20k ohms.
Could this be the fault
... 15 and 31 shows between 2.2 and 2.4 (when multimeter Set on 200 ohms)
... 4 and 31 shows 7.68 ohms ... multimeter is Set on 20k ohms.
If you set your multimeter to 20kOhms it will display all resistors in kOhm, so 7.68 means 7680 Ohms which sounds reasonable ... Assumingly your coil is ok.
Do you have any device to measure the ignition timing of your engine precisely?
Another test: The engine must be put to top dead centre (TDC), with both valves of cylinder 1 (front of engine) closed. In this position the rotor arm in your distributor should point roughly in a direction where spark plug #1 is connected to the dizzy cap. Normally you will find a little mark in the upper rim of your dizzy but I do not notice any in your photo. So I think your dizzy is not set up correctly!
If you set your multimeter to 20kOhms it will display all resistors in kOhm, so 7.68 means 7680 Ohms which sounds reasonable ... Assumingly your coil is ok.
Do you have any device to measure the ignition timing of your engine precisely?
Another test: The engine must be put to top dead centre (TDC), with both valves of cylinder 1 (front of engine) closed. In this position the rotor arm in your distributor should point roughly in a direction where spark plug #1 is connected to the dizzy cap. Normally you will find a little mark in the upper rim of your dizzy but I do not notice any in your photo. So I think your dizzy is not set up correctly!
Unfortunately I dont have a device to precisely check the timing..
How would I start this test? Do i take off the engine cover to see the cylinders?
I played with the dissy a bit a few weeks ago so its possible i also moved something.
The screw is there i just took it out to check the condenser.
I took time to check the wire and groundings so i did some cleaning with the wires. Unfortunately the wire connecting battery to engine is not in its best condition… Where could I find a new one? Perhaps motomobil 🤣
Give me a little time to write something more detailed for further tests.
For this moment: I am sorry to tell you that - without an ignition timing light - you will only manage to adjust ignition correctly "by accident" and Murphy's Law will not make this easy. 
If you are lucky, you will be able to see the two cams of cylinder #1 through the oil filler... Both cams, inlet and exhaust, have to point upwards symmetrically, which means that both valves are closed.
Fortunately there is another way forward which is not precise but it will vget the engine running:
Try to get the position of crankshaft, camshaft and dizzy as close as possible to the following ... However do not alter the timing belt position on its pulleys in any way ...
Only turn the engine in its normal direction (clockwise in the pic)!!
This position is about correct for the components and the engine should start, but maybe runs very rough. Very slightly turn your dizzy until the warm engine runs smoothly ... This is the best we can do for the moment ... Will put up more info and pics as soon as I find them in my data backup ...
If you have questions, just don't hesitate to ask ...
Gude
Auch wenn die Zündung nicht genau stimmt, fehlt ja der Funke.
Have you checked the voltage on the coil ? The negative cable from battery to the engine block is fixed now?
If I understand correctly. I have to take off the oil filter and then ?turn? The engine if they are not upwards symetrically.
Excuse me when I describe things not detailledly enough, but I only begin to understand that you are still learning and some details are still new to you.
YES, the timing belt cover has to be removed! (green circle in your picture)
First let me know if your engine is a 2.000cm³ OHC as a 1300 or 1600cm³ Engine can be damaged considerably when the timing belt is installed incorrectly and the engine is cranked !!
If you have a 2.000cm³ engine:
The gearbox must be in idle position. The engine is being turned then bei putting a ring spanner or ratchet on the 19mm Hex Head screw in the centre of the crank pulley.
Never turn it anti-clockwise and / or on any other screws, e.g. on the camshaft pulley! This might damage the toothed timing belt and other parts of the engine.
You can turn the engine a lot easier when removing the spark plugs first, but I understood that two of them seem to be seized ...
So the "business" is to bring the engine in this position:
If it is impossible to bring the engine into the position shown the toothed timing belt may not be installed correctly.
Please try this and if it doesn't work we have to rectify that first ... do not start the engine then!!
Please remove the 19mm spanner every time you do not turn your engine !!
Don't worry that you might have spoiled something. If it is a 2 Liter OHC it is hardly possible to destroy it.
So please examine if the toothed timing belt sits correctly and afterwards we fix the dizzy issue ...
Gude
On the 3rd picture is the alternator with 2 V belts. On the last picture is the Crankshaft, with two pulleys, one for the v belts with timing marks and one for the timingbelt
Turn the crankshaft like post #31 and then take 3 pictures : camshaft pulley, crankshaft timing marks and distributor with dizzy finger on it
In the meanwhile, something else. These 2 cables (red and black/yellow)havent been connected properly.
The red ones were together but the small black one was just kind of hanging loosely, and it was going from the ignition coil. I wrapped the black one around the red one and did a bit of protection around it.
Wouldnt be surprised at all if this helped the car not to turn on.
This is why you have to check the power on the coil with the blue tester.
First Picture: put the distributor cap on, and where the finger is, is the first Zylinder, cable to Zylinder 1( where the red fan is)
Second picture: nothing to see, on the pulley ar marks and on the block is a pointer, on picture one it’s nearly to see….in the left corner.
Third picture: okay
