TC2 Restauration Project - A complete beginner's experience

    • Neu

    I may have missed it , but are you actually using an automatic choke or a manual choke?


    if automatic, did you initialize the mechanism, i.e. fully kick down the throttle once?


    if this is done, the throttle is set to be at a defined gap afterwards, which also means that it is NOT resting on the throttle adjustment afterwards.


    Did you check this?

    • Neu

    I will do all the tests with the carb and the spark tomorrow if the weather allows it.


    As for the electrical pump on the photo, it was never in use. The old owner put it on the fuel line but never connected it, so when I replaced the fuel lines I just removed it from there.


    TufkaP


    Its a manual choke

    • Neu

    Gude Zanzibar how many Kilometer did you drive the car?

    Check the engine oil level on the stick and coolingwater level in the radiator, are the levels okay and no little sea under your car?

    Do you lost your ratchet on the crankshaft, it makes a funny sound…..

    Before you turn the next screws on left, put the carb together and make a little video from a sparkplug with spark while cranking with starter. Then look to the next step/problem

    • Neu

    Another thing Jörg told me in his mail (thank you, Jörg, your eyes are a lot better than mine ...) :la:    :biggrin

    There could be bad connections being made which will fail sooner or later
    (I reckon SOONER)

    • Neu

    Good afternoon.


    Today i cranked the car without spark plugs, put them back in and it cranked nicely again, no strange noises.


    After that I tested the fuel pump which - doesn’t work. As the fuel was up to the carb and in the lines before, this is probably new.


    After that I did the check light test. First to 8 TDC and then the test - Initially it was off and then i turned it to the moment when it was just switched off the dissy was precisely at spark lead 1 - a bit off the centre.


    After that I reconnected everything back and tried to crank it. I sipped in just 5-10 ml into the carb. Throttle opens carb nicely.


    Cranking Video


    Here is what happened. Also smelled like something was burning for a second - dissapeared very soon. Battery leads were not hot.


    Oil level is good? And coolant topped up.


    The fuse box is Well connected now, those Are old photos. I checked all the wiring. The only worrysome one is at the + of the battery.


    In the meanwhile, I also noticed that the (hand)brake on my rear left wheel doesn’t work. One more thing to check out 😁

    • Neu

    First impression from the video:

    Most assumingly the ignition timing is slightly too early so that the piston is still on the way up und is being stopped by the pressure building up in the cylinder.

    In addition the battery is not really charged well and I would do this first ... Charge it and try again (pour a very little fuel into the carb NOT MORE THAN 1cm³ which is about a thimble filled with fuel). If you get the same result, for a quick (and dirty) test I would repeat the timing procedure NOT with 8° before TDC but with 4° before TDC, which is the first deeper mark to the right from TDC. Then repeat the test whether the engine will fire ...


    If it fires you can temporarily try to connect the electrical fuel pump instead of your mechanical one ...


    • Neu

    Will do 👍


    The red cable was for a hifi system in the back. I disconnected the system but forgot to remove the cable.


    Jörg


    I only drove the car some 200 km

    When I bought it, the owner Said he rebuilt it 3000 km ago but as the car was also dormant with him for some time it has been several years since that.

    Einmal editiert, zuletzt von Zanzibar ()

    • Neu

    Maybe it would be a good idea to post a video of your spark plug cables producing sparks over a distance of roughly 10mm when cranking the engine, Jörg proposed that a bit further up ... Best will be to put all four cables side by side and fix them for example with clothespins in a distance of 40mm to each other and 10mm from a blank part of the engine.

    • Neu

    Good morning


    As my day of moving is coming closer, I have less and less time for the car as I also have to repaint and clean the appartment.


    The battery is recharged and I’m gonna pick it up today. Still waiting for the fuel pump to arrive.


    I arranged for the car to be towed to my mechanic nearby on monday. He will fix the handbrake and a few other stuff. Hopefully I get it to run by then.


    Anyone have any idea which parts have to be ordered - its a 229mm.

    • Neu

    When will you move house?


    Re Brakes: This is the larger brake system (there were 8" (203mm) and 9" (229mm) which means the inside dimension of the drums. When you order brake shoes the width is a thing to look at because Ford has produced different systems. Always buy parts with "brand names" as Ate, Jurid, Beral, Textar, Brembo, Ferodo, ... as these will not damage the drums and do brake sufficiently ...


    The brake cylinders should only be changed if they are leaking. New parts are available but very often of inferior quality, to say the least ... I would always prefer some NOS or OEM parts instead of any chinese junk that will not even last for one or two years ...

    The cylinders are available in different diameters and sometimes stamped numbers define the diameter in mm or in inch. So measure the diameter of the brake pistons without the rubber gaitor carefully prior to ordering as otherwise you might change the brake balance considerably.


    Don't forget to order suitable brake fluid. OEM brakes got specifications DOT3 or DOT4.


    The springs and other nuts and bolts are also available in sets, however, again prefer original NOS / OEM instead of Chinese bling bling ...


    Fingers crossed, keep us informed!